![]() ![]() If the battery is undercharged, and you have a jumper box or spare battery, try jumping it (carefully connecting the positive and negative cables in an open bilge). With a voltmeter, check between the positive and negative terminals a minimum of 12 volts is needed to adequately crank the engine. Battery: If you turn the key to crank the engine and nothing happens, or the starter engages and cranks slowly, your battery may be dead or low. ![]() Neutral Safety Switch: If you turn the key and nothing happens, but other components (see Main Fuse above) are working, check the gear shift to ensure it’s in neutral. Battery Switch: If your boat has a battery switch, ensure that it’s switched to “on” or “both” and try the key switch again. If the fuse is OK, check the main power plug that connects the engine to the boat. Typically located in a large red holder on the engine wiring harness, it’s usually a 20-amp fuse. Main Fuse: If you try to crank the engine and nothing happens, check the power trim as well as see if the gauges come “on.” If everything else is dead too, check the outboard’s main fuse. This guide will help you isolate the problem so that you may be able to solve it at the dock if you can’t, you’ll be able to speak intelligently about the problem to your mechanic. While outboards have become more and more complex, they still operate on the same principles as they did before the current wave of EFI/DFI and four-stroke technology appeared. Murphy’s Law says your boat won’t start when you have a cabin (and boat) full of guests. ![]() Step-by-step troubleshooting to help you pinpoint problems. ![]()
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